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HandicappedPets.Com
3 Bud Way, Suite 25
Nashua, NH 03063

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Afterword

Riley passed away on May 26, 2010, from an unrelated condition.  He lived to be 11 years and 7 months, and most of that time was as a happy boy.  He was loved more than anyone can ever imagine.  He was the best friend and child I could ever have been blessed with and I thank God that he gave my little Riley to me.  
 

 

A Dog with Spina Bifida

The Life of Riley

I met Riley on December 19, 1999 when I met a woman with a box of puppies. She was angrily trying to clean up a puppy the size of a beany baby because he had pooped all over himself. Riley made eye contact with me and talked to me continually as I held him. I took him home, cleaned him up and showed him his new forever home. I put him in my coat pocket and my nephew and I walked down the street looking at Christmas lights. All was good in our world.

spina bifida dog
Children called him the Easter puppy because he hopped and left little brown egg shaped bowel movements behind him.

 

I learned Riley didn’t know how to eat or walk. He quickly learned to eat but never tried to walk. He would lie on a blanket on the living room floor all day, little stuffed beany baby dogs around him, and watch the world go by. I took him to a vet highly regarded by the state veterinary board to find out what was wrong with him. The diagnosis was that he was perfect in every way, just slow to thrive.

He developed the strength to stand, his back legs wobbly and strangely bent. Gradually he began the process of moving away from the blanket, his back legs stretched out too far to really get anywhere. He learned that hopping worked. Children called him the Easter puppy because he hopped and left little brown egg shaped bowel movements behind him. I made more vet visits, called the state to verify the vet’s credentials and worried. A stranger in Petsmart told me to take him to a vet in a nearby town. At this point I’d try anything. The diagnosis was that Riley was born with a condition similar to Spina Bifida. He would never walk like other dogs, never have control of his bladder or bowels. She told me she had seen similar dogs and the owners had all chosen to put the dogs to sleep.

At seven months old, Riley’s life was just beginning. I made the decision to keep this special little dog. There have been health scares and huge vet bills along the way, but Riley is family and he has taught me to value the minutes instead of the days, the journey instead of the destination. He plays with other pets and enjoys life to the fullest. He brings smiles to those who see him on our travels. He is a blessing in every way. Finding the Handicapped Pets website was an answer to my prayers. Thanks for all you do to make the world a better place.

 


If you woke up tomorrow and couldn't see, you would eventually adjust to being blind and learn where things are in your house. It would take time and lots of work and patience. Your pet too will learn where everything is and will adjust to your house and yard if given time. Here are some ideas that will help you and your pet adjust to its blindness sooner.

1. Your pet isn't painful and doesn't need to be put to sleep just because it is blind.

2. Don't re-arrange your furniture if your pet is mostly indoors. If your pet is an outdoor pet, don't plan major landscape projects.

3. If you have a hot tub or pool, a cover or barrier is necessary because your pet could fall into the water, not find the sides and drown.

4. Walk your dog on a leash. You are his eyes. Anticipate problems and steer clear. Keep talking to your dog. Your voice will guide him. If you have an outdoor pet and no fence, please check into an "invisible fence."

5. Feed your pet and keep its water dish in exactly the same place each and every day. This area will then become a site for reference if your pet becomes disoriented.

6. Put your chair back under the table after meals. Things that are left out will cause your pet to bump and lead to disorientation.

7. If your pet gets disoriented, take him/her to its bed or food bowl. This will be a land mark that will re-orient your pet.

8. Until your pet learns about stairs, you will need to place a barrier to prevent him/her from falling down the stairs. The same is true for stair landings.

9. Most clients remark that going up and down stairs is the most difficult of all things to "re-learn." Be patient, your pet is trying to do its best.

 

Click below to be directed to the Canine Inherited Disorders Database and find out about inherited disorders in these breeds.

The most popular breeds tend to have the most disorders listed because there is a larger number of dogs affected, and therefore more opportunity to recognize a breed predisposition to a particular disorder. As well, indiscriminate breeding is more likely to occur in these breeds, leading to a higher incidence of inherited disorders. In less common or newer breeds, there may be no disorders listed or the list of disorders may be quite short, because it can take some time before enough dogs are affected to recognize an inherited disorder.

This is not a comprehensive list of every suspect inherited disorder that has ever been reported in each breed, but instead is an attempt to provide a list of inherited disorders for each breed, on which there is consensus among veterinarians and other experts that these are significant in that breed.

Affenpinscher
Afghan hound
Airedale terrier
Akbash dog

Akita
Alaskan malamute

American bulldog

American pit bull terrier
American Staffordshire terrier American water spaniel Australian cattle dog
Australian kelpie
Australian shepherd
Australian terrier
Back to top
 Basenji
Basset Griffon Vendeen
Basset hound Beagle Bearded collie
Bedlington terrier
Belgian Malinois
Belgian Tervuren
Belgian sheepdog
Bernese mountain dog
Bichon frise
Black and tan coonhound
Bloodhound
Bluetick coonhound
Border collie
Border terrier
Borzoi
Boston terrier
Bouvier des Flandres
Boxer
Briard
Brittany
Brussels Griffon
Bull terrier
Bull terrier, miniature
Bulldog
Bullmastiff
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 Cairn terrier
Canaan dog
Cardigan Welsh Corgi
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
Chesapeake Bay retriever
Chihuahua
Chinese shar-pei
Chow chow
Clumber spaniel
Cocker spaniel, American 
Cocker spaniel, English
Collie (rough and smooth)
Curly-coated retriever
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 Dachshund
Dalmatian
Dandie Dinmont terrier
Doberman pinscher
Back to top
 English bulldog
English cocker spaniel
English foxhound
English setter
English springer spaniel
English toy spaniel
Back to top
 Field spaniel
Finnish spitz
Flat-coated retriever
Fox terrier, smooth
Fox terrier, wire
French bulldog
Back to top
 German shepherd
German shorthaired pointer
German wirehaired pointer
Giant schnauzer
Golden retriever
Gordon setter
Great Dane
Great Pyrenees
Greater Swiss mountain dog
Greyhound
Greyhound, Italian
Back to top
 Harrier
Havenese
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 Ibizan hound
Irish setter
Irish terrier
Irish water spaniel
Irish wolfhound
Italian greyhound
Back to top
 Jack Russell terrier
Japanese Chin
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 Karelian bear dog
Keeshond
Kerry blue terrier
Komondor
Kuvasz
Back to top
 Labrador retriever
Lakeland terrier
Lhasa apso
Lowchen
Back to top
 Maltese
Manchester terrier
Mastiff
Miniature bull terrier
Miniature schnauzer
Miniature pinscher
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 Neapolitan mastiff
Newfoundland
Norfolk terrier
Norwegian elkhound
Norwich terrier
Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever
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 Old English sheepdog
Otterhound
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 Papillon
Pekingese
Pharaoh hound
Plott hound
Pointer (English pointer)
Pomeranian
Poodle, toy, miniature, standard
Portuguese water dog
Pug
Puli
Back to top
 Redbone coonhound
Rhodesian ridgeback
Rottweiler
Back to top
 Saint Bernard
Saluki
Samoyed
Schipperke
Schnauzer, giant
Schnauzer, miniature
Schnauzer, standard
Scottish deerhound
Scottish terrier
Sealyham terrier
Shar-pei
Shetland sheepdog
Shiba Inu
Shih tzu
Siberian husky
Silky terrier
Skye terrier
Soft coated wheaten terrier
Staffordshire bull terrier
Sussex spaniel
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Tibetan spaniel
Tibetan terrier Back to top
 Vizsla
Back to top
 Weimaraner
Welsh Corgi,Cardigan
Welsh Corgi,Pembroke
Welsh springer spaniel
Welsh terrier
West Highland white terrier
Whippet
Wirehaired pointing griffon
Back to top
 Yorkshire Terrier

Reprinted with Permission

This database is funded jointly by the Sir James Dunn Animal Welfare Centre at the Atlantic Veterinary College, University of Prince Edward Island, and the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association.

Copyright © 1998 Canine Inherited Disorders Database. All rights reserved.
Revised: December 29, 2004 .

 

Fear of Fireworks? Keep Your Dog Safe and Relaxed on July 4th
 

Fireworks Sad Dog




By Amy Robinson, CPDT
www.droolschool.com


For most of us, the Fourth of July holiday brings up happy memories of barbeques, family get-togethers and best of all, fireworks. While we may enjoy this noisy holiday, many of our dogs are traumatized by the fireworks. I have had first-hand experience with fear responses in dogs. It is very common for dogs to be fearful of noises from sources unknown to the dog, such as cars backfiring, thunder and especially fireworks. In fact, rather than getting used to noises over time, as dogs age, the fear usually increases.

It can be a pitiful sight: your dog worried and cowering from the fireworks noise, but refrain from comforting him. Our natural response is to pet and soothe our dogs, but from the dog’s point of view, it is interpreted as approval of his fear reaction. Instead, ignore the noise completely, because your dog is a good study of body language and will be watching your reaction closely. My dog, Bella, was always afraid of any popping noise, such as fireworks make, so we would draw the blinds, put on soft music to muffle the sound, and talk normally to put her more at ease. Try giving your dog a safe and secure hiding place, such as an interior bathroom with no windows or a walk-in closet, but leave the door open so the dog doesn’t feel too isolated.

If you are heading out to a backyard barbeque, resist the temptation to bring your dog. People start blowing off their firecrackers in the early afternoon, and sometimes the day before, so you are almost certain to have a frightened dog on your hands. Instead, take your dog out well before dark for a quality walk, and make him comfortable for the night.
 

 

 

A Leg at Each Corner – More or Less.
By Mark Robinson of HandicappedPets.com (piblished in Animal Wellness Magazine)
 
The devastating news that your best friend’s leg needs to be amputated is often met with fear and confusion. The fact is, this fear is unnecessary. Three-legged animals can live long, happy, healthy lives with minimal adjustment to their lifestyle or to yours. Lovingly called “Tripods” most three-legged animals are not even considered “handicapped.” Often, the greatest barrier they must overcome is the attitude and the concerns of their caretakers.
 
            “It’s not like when a person loses their leg,” explains Susan Marino of Angel’s Gate Rescue. “Animals are extremely adaptable and we’ve seen dogs and cats that make the adjustment immediately – within a few hours of the surgery.
 
Causes of Amputation
 
            The most common cause of amputation is bone cancer of the leg. Bone cancer is usually a very painful and debilitating disease. Fortunately, the animal can get a great deal of relief from the amputation and, even if the cancer has spread, can live a longer, happier, healthier life without the diseased limb.
 
            Other common causes include accident, abuse, untreated fractures that become septic, and neurological disorders, and congenital birth defects. Typically, an animal with a painful leg injury will become lethargic and depressed. Once the leg is removed, the pain is gone and their relief is almost immediate.
 
Methods of Amputation – Should you consider a prosthetic replacement?
 
            The question of whether or not it is better to leave a stump, or amputate cleanly at the shoulder or hip is often debated. If the animal is to be fitted with a prosthetic replacement leg, then a well-designed stump makes the attachment of the device to the animal easier. If the leg is not going to be replaced, it is often advised that the leg be taken at the hip or shoulder as a stump gets in the way and can be easily injured. In the case of cancer, it sometimes best to take the whole infected leg so as not to leave any cancerous tissue.
 
            Dr. Martin Kaufmann, a leader in the field of canine orthotics and prosthetics explains, “If there is no medical reason to amputate the whole leg, then the decision of how much to amputate depends on the overall health of the animal and the attitude of the owner. A three-legged animal can live a long, happy, healthy life as long as his remaining legs continue to function. If another leg is injured due to the extra weight it needs to carry, then animal is lost.”
 
            If the leg is amputated at the hip or shoulder, there is no good way to attach a prosthetic leg, and the replacement leg would be rigid and uncomfortable. In this case it might be best, based on a veterinarian’s advice, to leave it alone and let the dog adapt to life as a three legged dog. If his other legs are too weak to carry the extra weight, then a handicapped pet cart should be considered. If the bottom of the leg, below the knee (fibula or radius) is to be amputated then a prosthetic replacement can give the animal full functionality.
 
Prosthetic leg replacements can cost between $200 and $600 depending on the size of the dog and how much of the leg remains. Generally, animals adapt quickly with a delightful “AHA” moment when a dog, unsure of his new attachment, forgets and zooms off to meet a buddy. If considering a prosthetic it is best to contact the maker of the prosthetic leg as soon as you know there is going to be an amputation.
 
Almost any animal; horses, sheep, goats, can be fitted with a prosthetic although “Cats,” says Dr. Kauffman, “are often extremely resistant to the idea of an attachment to their body.”
 
           
Exercise
 
            Typically, a three-legged animal, as well as their caretaker soon forget the missing limb altogether. They can run, jump, play, swim, climb stairs as well as anyone – sometimes better.
 
Care needs to be taken, especially at first. Possibly the greatest hazard to a new amputee dog is a slippery floor. Throw rugs, Paw Wax or Pet Boots can be a good answer. It is critical that the health of the remaining leg be watched carefully. If necessary a splint or brace can be used.
 
Front leg amputation can be slightly more difficult for an animal as the weight of the head needs to be compensated for with balance and additional muscle. This is always the case with horses, who generally cannot compensate for a front leg amputation.
 

Weight

       A three-legged dog must not become overweight! This is a key to maintaining the dogs health. Excess weight puts a huge strain on the remaining leg and can cause further injury.

 

Dog Wheelchiar

       In many cases, a Dog Wheelchair is not necessary for a three-legged dog although it can be a handy convenience. It can help prevent the dog from getting overtired on long walks. Typically, the dog's caretaker will carry the dog wheelchair and observe closely for signs of tiredness. As soon as the dog slows down, he or she can be placed in the dog wheels for the walk home. In addition, the dog wheelchair can be used while the animal is losing weight and becoming accustomed to the amputation.

 

 

Angel’s Story
 
Angel is a 7 year old Australian Shepherd/Greyhound whose front was caught in a railway track-switching intersection. In freeing herself, she destroyed the lower part of her leg. Her owner was unable to afford a complete amputation and had Angel’s leg amputated at the knee.
 
Six months later, she’s running, jumping, and following her Dad up and down stairs with ease. Angel is a happy tripod. With her increased activity, though, Angel is starting to have problems with her stump. She occasionally relies on it for balance and this often causes the sensitive skin to rub raw and become painful.
 
            “We tried socks, and even a pet boot, but Angel won’t have it and chews it off every time. She’s an active dog who is smart and full of life” explains her Rockford, IL mom.
 
            Angel needs either another surgery to remove the leg at the shoulder or a prosthetic to make her leg fully functional.
 
Adopting A Three-Legged Animal
 
            Many completely healthy, happy, loving tripods are sent to shelters only because of their perceived imperfections. It is important, though, when adopting one, to understand whether the animal will need special care.
 
            The health of the remaining legs, especially the one opposite from the amputated leg, is important. If the leg appears weak, it may need extra support (such as a splint) or the dog may require a handicapped pet cart.
 
            If any of the leg remains, the bottom of the stump needs to be healthy. Often the amputating veterinarian will graft a pad, or excess muscle around the bone at the end of the stump for protection. In addition to a healthier leg, this will help with the attachment of a prosthetic, if desired.
 
 
Resources
 
HandicappedPets.com – For elderly, disabled, and special needs pets; products, services, and support.
HandicappedPets.Net – An extremely active message board for caretakers of handicapped pets where you can get help.
K9Brace.com – Orthotics and Prosthetics for Pets. Contact form for Dr. Martin Kauffman.
Injureddogs.com – Dog Lift Harnesses
AnimalDoors.com – Ramps and Steps for Elderly, disabled animals.
PetBoots.com – Protective Boots, shoes for active dogs, and standard booties are available.
DogKarts.com – Wheelchairs and carts for Pets
WheelsForDogs.com – A website with instructions for homemade carts.
BottumsUpLeash.com – A Rear End Support Leash to help you dog at the end that needs the most help.
AngelsGate.org – The most loving, supportive place for handicapped animals on the planet -- threatened with closure for all the wrong reasons.
 
 

 

 
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